This past weekend was yet another eventful weekend! It started with an early end to the work day and a trip to Toi Market, a large second-hand open-air market near the infamous slum of Kibera. After finding the prices were too high for my budget (although I couldn't resist shopping and went back on Sunday), I went over to (Professor) Patricia's house for dinner. She stays with her husband (who I didn't meet), 19 year-old son (who was traveling), and 12 year-old daughter in what I thought was an apartment complex but turned out to be a beautiful "duplex." Her house was three-stories tall, 4 bedrooms (although 2 of the bedrooms could be split into 2 more!)/5 bath/2 living rooms, painted in vibrant colors (lime green, canary yellow, brown, pink striped). She also had a gorgeous rooftop patio that you could almost see my apartment from. For dinner, we had mokimo (the mashed peas/potato/corn dish that I love), steamed cabbage, and chicken (I opted for meatballs).
Patricia (right) and her daughter Chloe (left)
Me watching the Ghana vs Uruguay match in the family room
On Saturday, I had the unique opportunity to see another part of Kenyan culture. I met up with Silas, a contact I received from one of my classmates, and then we took a 45-minute-or-so journey to the neighboring town of Ngong. Once we got there, we had milk tea and maandaazi (that delicious donut that I really should stop eating) and I noticed a few oddities. First, Silas seemed to know a lot of people. This was clearly a close-knit community, very unlike the metroplex of Nairobi. Second, he greeted people by putting his hand on their head. Interesting, I thought, and definitely something I hadn’t seen. Third, everyone seemed to have ear deformities! I thought it was just the first man we greeted on our way to the restaurant, but I soon realized that several men had the bottom part of their earlobes stretched around the rest of the ear…and the women had beads through abnormally large ear holes. It finally occurred to me ask Silas if he was Masai. And this is how I found myself in “Masai country” for the day!
After tea, we took a one hour journey to get to Silas’ family’s compound. We only traveled 18 km, but considering that there were three of us squished together on the back of a motorbike on a rugged dirt road, the journey was long!! The ride was very much like a motorbike safari, and Silas informed me that at the early hours of the day when the cattle aren’t being herded across the plains, you can actually see antelope, giraffe, and other animals in their natural habitat. In the distance, I saw the Ngong hills, which made a beautiful backdrop to such a peaceful country.
Me (clearly not valuing my life) on the back of a motorbike...If I had known this was part of the plan, it probably wouldn't have happened...
Silas and I (in motion) on the back of the bike. Note: we are helmet-less. Perfect example of what we learn not to promote in public health.
Views from the back of the bike...
I spent the day visiting Silas’ home – or more precisely, the four homes of Silas’ father (one for each wife) as well as Silas’ separate abode. We walked around to see the views (and also to use nature’s natural washroom since the compound had no toilet) and it was really a unique opportunity.
You can't tell, but just beyond this brush is the the compound of Silas' family
Do you see it yet?!
The homes of Wife 1 (right) and 4(left). Each has a traditional mud hut (has a kitchen and sleeping room) as well as a shed-like addition.
Silas inside of Wife 1's kitchen
Silas and I in the sitting room of Wife 1's newly-built addition
Wife 4 with one (of many) babies
Me triumphant after our walk through the thick bush!
There were a handful of the nearly 40 children that stay at the compound. They were confused that I was the muzungu visitor, since I wasn't white...But eventually they accepted me none-the-less.
I should note here that while the pictures don't show it, these children are the very essence of a public health concern. In spite of their youthful nature, there were so many things that made me wish I could do something for them. One little boy was skinny but had a bloated stomach, which I supsect could be the result of a parasite or malnutrition. Silas informed me that they live on a diet of milk, ugali (maize fufu), meat (cattle or sheep, which they have several of), and for the non-Christian Masai people - blood. The children were all filthy dirty, covered in caked dirt that had probably been there for days since there was no proper showering place or easily accessible water supply. Flies swarmed around them and the compound, and no one except myself and the motorbike driver seemed to be bothered by them. One child clearly had some foot fungus or bacteria, eating away the flesh between his toes, while another had spots on his head that looked suspiciously like scalp ringworm... Regardless, they were children, and like all children, had that jovial innocence and good-natured spirit.
My adventure in Ngong concluded with truly being adopted as a Masai for a day. I got to wear a traditional Masai outfit, complete with jewelry. I think that they were trying to marry me into the family…
Masai for a Day!
Glamor shots...
Notice the several necklaces I am wearing. They look really exquisite on the skinny, long-necked, shaved head Masai women. And, they jingle in rhythm with the traditional bobbing head Masai dance that they do.
Me as part of the family!
Me and Silas
At this point I was a little suspicious...
The day ended with a 1 hour ride back to Ngong town, then a 45 minute ride back to Nairobi. Achieng's 9-year-old nephew had been staying with us, so after a power outage at 8 pm, we went to one of the nearby malls for dinner before I watched the World Cup match for the evening.
The weekend ended on Sunday with a day of shopping, walking, and watching football with Elma, Lena, and baby Nyakara. Another fun weekend gone and just a few more to go...
The last picture makes you look like Mr and Mrs Silas and family:))
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